AHAs (ALPHA-HYDROXY ACIDS)AHAs are a group of organic acids found in natural sources or synthesized in the laboratory. They exfoliate the outer dead layer of
skin, increase skin thickness, improve the quality of elastic fibres with increased density of collagen. Removal of the outer most layer
of the skin stimulates the cells in lower layers to grow and divide, causing the skin to thicken and thus diminish signs of ageing. The
more you exfoliate the more cell divisions will occur in the lower skin layers. Research shows that alpha hydroxy acids produce a
significant reversal of epidermal and dermal photo ageing. The effectiveness of an AHA product depends mainly on the
concentration of acid and the pH (acidity). It must be remembered that over the counter cosmetic AHA products have very low
concentrations so less efficacy.
Malic acid - (from apples) is naturally derived. Malic acid is a first choice of RégimA as it is an AHA and a BHA so has dual power
for more skin types and benefits. Has a powerful action without the irritation experienced with some other acids. Natural acids are
non-adulterated by chemicals, have a micro-molecular structure, safely penetrate to the basal (living) layer and have a therapeutic
action.
Lactic acid - (from milk) is naturally derived. Lactic acid is a first choice of RégimA as it increases skin moisturization and imparts a
smoother feel. Has a powerful action without the irritation experienced with some other acids. Natural acids are non-adulterated by
chemicals, have a micro-molecular structure, safely penetrate to the basal (living) layer and have a therapeutic action.
Citric acid - (from citrus fruit) is naturally derived. Citric acid is a first choice of RégimA as it also has a dual action because it is an
AHA and a BHA. Citric acid is also known for having a positive effect on pigmentation. Has a powerful action without the irritation
experienced with some other acids. Natural acids are non-adulterated by chemicals,
Glycolic acid - (if natural - from sugar cane. If there are chemical buffering agents used then it is, as in most cases, synthetic). Much
of the glycolic acid used is man made and thus requires chemical buffering to stabilize. Has a micro-molecular structure so penetrates
to the basal (living) layer. However, because of the potential irritating effects of added chemicals always ask what ingredients have
been used for the buffering process.
NOTE: The American Food & Drug Administration (FDA) have for many years written reports on the safety of ingredients used
within the cosmetic industry. In a report revised in May 1999 the following statement was made regarding glycolic acid:
"Another study that looked at the effects of glycolic acid on production of sunburn cells (markers for UV-induced skin damage)
found that people who received the glycolic AHA product in the presence of UV radiation experienced twice the cell damage in areas
where the glycolic AHA had been applied than those who were treated with the non-AHA product (during the day). FDA's concern is
that people who are sensitive to sunlight may be particularly susceptible to UV rays, which can damage the skin and, over a long
period, can cause skin cancer"IMPORTANT: For the above reason (and because in certain cases AHAs used in the sun can lead to pigmentation) we at RégimA
will not use AHAs in any daytime preparations. AHAs must only be used in night preparations or during an in-salon or in doctors
rooms treatment & then neutralized and post-treatment products applied. AHAs are time dependent so they will continue working on
the skin until neutralized off.
BHAs (BETA-HYDROXY ACIDS)(Naturally derived) BHAs simple organic acids found in nature or synthesized in the laboratory. The main function of BHAs is they
have the ability to remove blocking oil plugs from congested, acne/problem skins as well as having a mild exfoliating effect.
Certain acids are classified as alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy and RégimA utilizes these dual action natural acids - Malic Acid,
Citric Acid (see info above in AHA section). These acids therefore have the potent rejuvenating effects required for more mature
skins and also the decongesting, unblocking power essential for the problematic skins.
Salicylic Acid - (from Willow Bark). Salicylic acid is Asprin-like in composition so has the added anti-inflammatory benefits. BHAs
penetrate deep into the pores to remove any plugs of oil. Highly beneficial in problematic skins. Used in certain RégimA problem
skin products.
PHAs (POLY-HYDROXY ACIDS)Gluconolactone (PHA) synthetic acid is similar to AHAs. The significant difference between the two is that the PHA has a larger
molecular structure, which limits penetration into the skin. There is obviously a reduction in irritation on application. This is because
PHAs are extremely mild and work very superficially, only on the outer epidermis and have no deeper, therapeutic action.
MANDELIC ACID- Bitter almondsCaution: Requires chemical processing with hydrochloric acid, sodium and potassium cyanide and benzene!!
Has a large molecular structure so causes less irritation than some other AHAs because penetration is more superficial. An extensive
chemical process is required to produce a peeling substance for topical application. This process includes the use of hydrochloric
acid, cyanide and benzene, which is a known carcinogen! This is an acid that has not yet been used extensively and lacks the medical
research backing that other AHAs and BHAs have, so long term side effects have not been established.
TCA ( TRICHLORACETIC ACID)(Synthetic acid) Chemical peel formulated by chlorinating acetic acid. In the hands of skilled clinicians TCA can work successfully.
However, there are potential side effects of hyper-pigmentation (skin going darker) and hypo-pigmentation (skin going white). In
certain cases it has been seen that initially following a TCA peel the skin is smoother and pigmentation reduced significantly. Skin is
sensitive to sunlight for 6-8 weeks afterwards. There is a risk that in certain cases the pigmentation comes back with a vengeance.
PHENOLHighly corrosive peel only performed by a skilled clinician and only in a hospital environment. This chemical is used mainly for
deep perioral wrinkles. The peel is very deep and takes quite some time to heal and the skin remains red for up to several months.
The resultant skin is usually very smooth, however, there is a very high risk of de-pigmentation (treated skin goes white) and one
would always require a heavier foundation to cover the difference in skin colour.
http://www.regima.com/treatments-skin-peels \
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